…and the guy in the bike shop was super helpful and explained the best way to escape the city is to take a ferry across the river to Almada (no bikes on the bridges) and then to head south down the coast. Also, apparently this is a pretty popular ride–he said that every Christmas there’s an organized ride from Lisbon down to Lagos, on the southwestern tip of Portugal. Lots of good camping, too.
Seems I have a route for Sunday, my first day on the road!